Greatest General Climbing Helmet
Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips
Weight: 9.7 oz. | Shell Model: EPP and EPS, ABS Shell with Mips
REASONS TO BUY
Contains Mips expertise
Very snug and extremely adjustable
Aspect influence safety from EPP foam
Sturdy
REASONS TO AVOID
Costly
Not the lightest
We contemplate the Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips the perfect climbing helmet available on the market right this moment. The addition of the Mips (Multi-directional Influence Safety System) harness – expertise that’s now commonplace in each bike and ski helmets – reportedly reduces the possibilities of concussion by deflecting sure impacts and decreasing influence forces. We see no purpose this expertise mustn’t turn into commonplace in climbing helmets. The Imaginative and prescient Mips can be actually snug, extremely adjustable, and well-ventilated. We attain for this helmet essentially the most typically for our private climbing and guiding, which simply goes to point out how versatile and cozy this helmet is.
The Mips harness and extra sturdy ABS shell make this helmet heavier than most different foam choices. That stated, we do not actually really feel the burden distinction over an extended day of climbing, and the added sturdiness and safety are effectively well worth the weight improve. It nonetheless actually feels lighter than any helmets that use a full hard-shell design. The expertise integrated on this helmet will increase the value, however we do not contemplate the value outrageous in comparison with different high-end foam helmets. If you would like the perfect safety out of your climbing helmet, in essentially the most snug and adjustable package deal obtainable, then the Imaginative and prescient Mips makes that call simple. For those who’re searching for the lightest weight helmets available on the market, try the Black Diamond Vapor or the Petzl Sirocco — simply know that these fashions usually are not as sturdy.
Learn extra: Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips evaluation
Greatest Bang for the Buck
Black Diamond Half Dome
Weight: 12.7 oz. | Shell type: Onerous ABS Plastic with EPS Foam
REASONS TO BUY
Nice worth
Sturdy
Simple to regulate
Nice headlamp clips
REASONS TO AVOID
Heavy
Poor air flow
The Black Diamond Half Dome is an reasonably priced and really protecting helmet that is likely one of the hottest climbing helmets on the earth. It gives extra safety and affords extra sturdiness than another helmet at an unbeatably low value level. Our testers love the click-wheel adjustment system on the again as a result of it is tremendous simple to make use of with just one hand and affords a variety of dimension changes to swimsuit any dome.
One flaw appears to plague all hardshell helmets we have examined — weight. At 12.7 ounces, the Half Dome weighs greater than twice as a lot because the light-weight Petzl Sirocco. Though it would solely look like a number of ounces, this distinction is very noticeable after an extended day. The Half Dome additionally would not ventilate effectively and is not essentially the most snug helmet in comparison with different, better-padded choices. We fear that the annoyance of the burden, restricted air flow, and lack of consolation may translate into some climbers carrying this helmet much less typically, thereby negating the aim of a helmet altogether. That stated, the Half Dome’s enticing value probably outweighs these downsides for brand spanking new climbers or these buying on a decent price range. For those who’re keen to pay a bit extra for added consolation, check out the Petzl Meteor under.
Learn extra: Black Diamond Half Dome evaluation
Greatest Worth for a Light-weight Helmet
Petzl Meteor
Weight: 8.5 oz. | Shell type: EPS, Polycarbonate
REASONS TO BUY
Simply adjustable
A lot of air flow
Inexpensive for a light-weight helmet
Versatility for ski mountaineering
REASONS TO AVOID
Heavier than the lightest helmets
Magnetic chin clip attracts grime
The Petzl Meteor balances low weight and sturdiness with affordability. It contains a hard-shell design, with a polycarbonate plastic shell overlaying the whole helmet. This shell provides important sturdiness in comparison with dearer, uncovered foam designs, however it is not as heavy as shells that use ABS plastic. The result’s a helmet that’s gentle sufficient to really feel minimalist and cozy for all-day use, sturdy sufficient to resist loads of abuse, and reasonably priced sufficient for climbers on a price range who additionally need a high-performance helmet.
The Meteor is well adjustable by way of a plastic slider bar on the again of the pinnacle. Nonetheless, this technique is not as snug because the light-weight material straps that essentially the most snug helmets use. It has tons of air flow holes for climbing when the climate is scorching or when you’re sweating, making it an important alternative for mountaineering and ski mountaineering. It is not as low-cost as essentially the most cheap helmets just like the Black Diamond Half Dome or as gentle because the lightest helmets just like the Petzl Sirocco, however it presents a horny stability between the 2.
Learn extra: Petzl Meteor evaluation
Greatest Light-weight Climbing Helmet
Petzl Sirocco
Weight: 6.1 oz. | Shell type: EPP and EPS, Partial Polycarbonate Shell
REASONS TO BUY
Extraordinarily light-weight
Protects head from each prime and facet impacts
Nice air flow
Snug
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Much less adjustable than many
The Petzl Sirocco is nearly the right climbing helmet, being so light-weight and cozy that we generally overlook we’re carrying it. It’s protecting sufficient for commonest types of climbing, like sport climbing and single-pitch trad climbing in well-traveled venues. It has a small hard-shell patch on the very prime of the pinnacle to guard from falling objects, and high-quality foam across the sides to guard in opposition to lateral impacts. The match is ideal, with a light-weight and cozy material harness system for the pinnacle that gives loads of adjustability. And, in fact, loads of vents improve airflow on scorching days.
The Sirocco has some downsides, although, together with value and sturdiness. The uncovered foam is vulnerable to wreck, and though this helmet lasts a decently very long time, we discover that dings and dents have a tendency so as to add up over time. It additionally prices some huge cash, and this important funding will ultimately be broken and want substitute, even with out sustaining a significant influence. Qualms apart, that is the helmet you will notice on many professionals for a very good purpose. It doesn’t matter what sort of climbing you have interaction in, the Sirocco is perfect. The Black Diamond Vapor is analogous in weight and we favor its air flow barely extra, though we had been greater followers of the Sirocco’s match.
Learn extra: Petzl Sirocco evaluation
Greatest Twin-Rated Climbing Helmet
Smith Summit Mips Helmet
Weight: 14.4 oz. | Shell type: ABS and Polycarbonate
REASONS TO BUY
Twin-certified for each climbing and snowboarding
Amazingly snug
Tremendous sturdy
Mips safety
REASONS TO AVOID
Heavy
Very costly
The Smith Summit Mips is the perfect dual-certified climbing and snowboarding helmet at the moment available on the market. It stands out from the competitors for its pristine consolation and excellent match. This helmet is extra snug to put on than another we’ve got ever examined, because of a cocoon-like BOA adjustment mechanism and a form that cradles your head. Because of the largely ABS plastic shell, it might take a beating, guaranteeing your funding will final. The Mips inside liner provides appreciable safety in opposition to head accidents and in addition will increase consolation by bettering airflow. In case you are a backcountry skier who climbs often, this helmet is a superb alternative.
Sadly, this helmet is heavy in comparison with different climbing-specific helmets, making it a poor alternative for high-performance climbing and large days on the rock. As a result of design of the BOA system, it lacks a variety of sizing changes, so double-check these dimension measurements earlier than ordering. It additionally carries an astronomical price ticket. However buying this helmet as a substitute of two separate climbing and snowboarding helmets may prevent some cash. For those who do not want a helmet rated for snowboarding however like the thought of a Mips helmet, try the Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips, one in every of our total favorites.
Learn extra: Smith Summit Mips evaluation
Evaluate Merchandise
How We Take a look at Climbing Helmets
After researching the market, we bought 13 of the highest climbing helmets obtainable right this moment. Our helmet testing takes place in real-world conditions — that’s, on the rock. We put on these helmets day by day whereas climbing lengthy routes and whereas single-pitch cragging, typically bringing a number of helmets alongside in order that we will evaluate them one after the opposite. We additionally lend them to associates and climbing companions to get opinions from many alternative folks with completely different head sizes/shapes. Finally, we mixed these experiences with measurable knowledge to evaluate efficiency traits and formulate our total scores. Because of our intensive evaluation and hands-on testing, you may be positive we suggest the easiest climbing helmets.
Our climbing helmet testing is split into six score metrics:
- Consolation (30% of complete rating weighting)
- Adjustability (20% weighting)
- Air flow (10% weighting)
- Sturdiness (10% weighting)
For extra info on our testing course of and standards, see our full How We Take a look at article.
Why Belief GearLab
Our knowledgeable panel contains Andy Wellman, Jeff Dobronyi, and Cam McKenzie Ring.
Andy is a well-seasoned climber with many years of expertise underneath his belt. A former guidebook creator and writer, he has spent most of his life climbing small and tall rocks worldwide. He lives within the mountains of southern Colorado.
Jeff is an IFMGA Mountain Information based mostly in Boulder, Colorado. He climbs and skis all over the world for enjoyable and work, at all times with a trusty helmet in tow.
Cam is a well-traveled rock warrior that has been climbing for over 20 years. At present based mostly in Las Vegas, she frequents the massive colourful partitions of endless multi-pitch heaven in Purple Rocks. Earlier than this, she spent a few years climbing Yosemite’s granite partitions and dealing on Yosemite Search and Rescue.
Along with testing by our lead reviewers, helmets got out to associates, each skilled and novice climbers, to make use of on all kinds of climbs, from lengthy multi-pitch to overhung bolted routes.
Evaluation and Take a look at Outcomes
Carrying a climbing helmet is rarely a nasty thought. No matter which mannequin you determine to purchase, it will not do you any good when you do not put on it. This purpose is why we really feel it is essential to get one which matches your wants. We reviewed loads of nice choices, so you will certainly discover the appropriate helmet in your type. To find out the perfect fashions, we assessed these helmets throughout six essential traits: consolation, adjustability, weight, air flow, options, and sturdiness.
What is the Greatest Worth?
Climbing helmets vary from reasonably priced to downright costly. On the whole, you get what you pay for. The very best helmets incorporate options like EPP foam, Mips expertise, and light-weight shell elements. All of those further options contribute to a helmet’s price ticket. Sadly, the perfect climbing helmets shave weight by limiting the exhausting shell part to only the highest of the pinnacle, which leaves foam uncovered across the sides. This foam will get dented and punctured over time throughout regular use, like packing the helmet right into a backpack and banging your head in opposition to the edges of a chimney whereas climbing. The extra sturdy choices are usually inexpensive however aren’t as nice to make use of, particularly when you get out typically.
That stated, many alternatives exist to attain an important helmet with out paying an excessive amount of. The Black Diamond Half Dome is a protecting and sturdy helmet at a really low value level, making it the perfect worth available on the market. The Petzl Boreo is similar to the Half Dome in efficiency and value. We additionally like the sturdiness, affordability, and relative consolation of the Petzl Meteor. This helmet prices a bit greater than essentially the most primary fashions however delivers efficiency close to the highest of the market.
Consolation
Consolation is a very powerful consideration when selecting your new helmet. Most helmets, particularly these made of froth, are molded into a particular form, and even with adjustable harnesses that assist you to adapt the match, you’ll by no means be capable to change the form of the helmet. Some helmets are deep and rectangular, whereas others are shallower or rounder. Since all of us have completely different head shapes, what suits one individual completely could not work for another person. This truth additionally makes grading for this metric fairly subjective, so we had been positive to speak to as many individuals as potential to nail down what of us preferred and did not like about every mannequin.
The harness system contained in the helmet is a vital part of consolation because it tightens in opposition to the again and sides of the person’s head. If any plastic elements stick out into the person’s scalp, consolation will clearly undergo. We love the material patch on the BOA tightening knob of the Smith Summit Mips. This patch is pulled snugly in opposition to the again of the pinnacle when tightening, cocooning the pinnacle in smooth, velvety consolation.
The Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips can be tremendous snug, because of a low-profile plastic ratcheting adjustment band and a well-contoured form that may relaxation comfortably on prime of any head. It additionally has a Mips slip liner, permitting the helmet to pivot with out rubbing in opposition to the highest of the pinnacle. This will increase consolation and safety.
The Petzl Sirocco is one other all-star for consolation. It’s deep, well-ventilated, and ever-so-slightly rectangular, with a really minimalist harness system contained in the helmet. It’s also the lightest helmet we have ever examined, which is a significant determinant of how snug it feels to put on all day. It options detachable pads that cushion your head from the helmet’s foam. These pads are designed to soak up sweat and may be eliminated to be washed. Many helmets, together with the Sirocco, include two units of pads.
One other snug alternative is the Mammut Wall Rider Mips, which additionally contains a light-weight harness and affords an identical quantity of air flow to the Petzl Sirocco. Nevertheless, the shell is a little more spherical and it suits extra shallowly on the pinnacle. In case your head is not the perfect form for the Sirocco, you could have higher luck with the Wall Rider Mips. Additionally in style amongst testers for consolation are the light-weight and really well-ventilated Black Diamond Vapor and Petzl Meteor.
Adjustability
Climbing helmets have to be adjustable to suit every person’s head correctly. A safe match will increase safety, consolation, and climbing capacity. When contemplating adjustability, we seemed for loads of room for adjustment within the helmet’s dimension and the way effectively the scale adjustment mechanisms work.
Producers make use of three strategies for adjusting every helmet’s circumference: a click-wheel, a plastic slider bar, or light-weight straps and buckles. Utilizing solely straps and buckles gives the lightest resolution however often the least adjustability. Plastic slider bars permit extra size adjustment. However they are often troublesome to determine with out wanting, and in addition introduce plastic elements that may stick out into the person’s head, which might, in fact, lower consolation. Click on wheels often present the biggest adjustment vary (however not at all times) and are the simplest to regulate. Further adjustment options embrace the V-yoke that comes down on both facet of your ears to hitch the chin strap.
The Black Diamond Half Dome is likely one of the most adjustable helmets on this evaluation and can be one of many best to regulate. It makes use of a click on wheel on the again that makes tightening or loosening the match easy. It additionally has simply adjustable straps on the V-yoke and chin. We give it prime honors on this division as a result of even the tensioning band that the press wheel is hooked up to may be adjusted up or down alongside two items of webbing to accommodate hair higher.
The Petzl Meteor is essentially the most adjustable and best to make use of among the many lighter-weight helmets. It incorporates a plastic slider bar to regulate the sizing and a sliding V-yoke adjustment mechanism to regulate the chin strap. The Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips additionally makes use of a plastic slider bar with loads of size adjustment however no V-yoke adjustment. The Petzl Sirocco additionally has good adjustment by way of a cloth strap and sliding V-yoke strap.
Evaluating the plastic sliding bars of the Petzl Meteor (left) and the Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips (proper).
Weight
Climbing is a battle in opposition to gravity, so the burden of your tools issues. Shaving a few ounces on each bit of drugs can add as much as kilos over your complete equipment, which could imply the distinction between sending your challenge and flailing on the crux – or worse, falling in harmful terrain. Weight can be a key think about consolation since we’re typically craning to look upwards whereas belaying, particularly when cragging.
The Petzl Sirocco and Black Diamond Vapor are the lightest helmets available on the market, weighing simply over 6 ounces every. These helmets obtain such a low weight by minimizing the quantity of exhausting shell materials used and using gentle material harnesses with comparatively small ranges of adjustment. They’re excellent for sport climbing and comparatively protected – even troublesome – trad and multi-pitch routes. They’re additionally utilized by world-class alpinists who depend each gram.
Different uncovered foam designs, just like the Edelrid Salathe, Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips, and Petzl Meteor, additionally weigh lower than most helmets available on the market. Among the many exhausting shell helmets, the Singing Rock Penta stands out for its extremely low weight of simply 7.2 ounces, because of its skinny polycarbonate shell.
Air flow
Even in cooler temperatures, it is easy to work up a sweat whereas climbing. Our heads get scorching whereas climbing in helmets, insulated by our hair and the helmet’s protecting foam.
To fight this insulating impact, air flow holes are wanted to permit scorching air to flee and cooler air to circulation by means of the helmet, enhancing evaporative cooling. The helmets with extra vent holes present higher airflow, and holes on the entrance of the pinnacle are key for transferring air previous the scalp.
The standout on this class is the Black Diamond Vapor. Its design is essentially the most open of any of the uncovered foam fashions we examined and gives very good air flow. The Petzl Sirocco, Petzl Meteor, and CAMP Storm additionally function a whole lot of vents.
Among the many ski-certified helmets, we had been pleasantly shocked by the air flow capabilities of the Smith Summit Mips. Though it has small vents to move the ski certification assessments, the vents are effectively positioned across the complete head to facilitate airflow.
Options
Climbing helmets do not want too many bells and whistles, however they do have to accommodate a headlamp for pre-dawn begins and deep, darkish chimneys. In addition they may have to accommodate goggles for wintertime goals. Newer options just like the Mips slip liner are notable additions to many trendy helmets. We examined all the obtainable options on every helmet and examined how effectively they work.
Headlamp attachments are often composed of two light-weight plastic clips across the entrance of the helmet that hold the bulb part in place squarely on the brow. Typically, helmets incorporate further clips within the rear, or an elastic band doubling as a goggle clip. We love the mixture of huge plastic clips on the entrance and the elastic strap on the rear of the Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips that simply accommodates goggles. The Mips liner completes the right set of options on this helmet. Different helmets incorporating two entrance clips and a rear elastic strap are the Petzl Sirocco and Petzl Meteor, the Black Diamond Vapor, Edelrid Salathe, and the dual-certified Julbo The Peak LT.
The clips on the Petzl Boreo, Black Diamond Half Dome, Black Diamond Capitan Mips, and CAMP Storm are the best and most pure to make use of. Every of those helmets incorporates 4 plastic clips, one on every nook of the helmet. A headlamp successfully stays in place all day, and it is tremendous simple to slip the strap up underneath the clips to safe it in place.
A back and front view of the 4 well-designed headlamp clips on the CAMP Storm.
Sturdiness
Climbing helmets are designed to guard your head from falling objects, however their protecting supplies are typically designed to deform from a critical influence. Most climbing helmets can face up to a number of small-sized rocks or a few good-sized chunks of ice however will want substitute after any massive hit. We search for one thing that may maintain as much as the conventional put on and tear of free rocks, roofs you did not see coming (bonk!), and a modest quantity of ice shelling with no need substitute. We additionally need one thing we will pack in our backpacks or unintentionally drop from a number of toes with out worrying about it shattering. Whereas all the climbing helmets on this evaluation handed a collection of standardized influence assessments, their day-to-day sturdiness varies considerably.
The Black Diamond Half Dome is essentially the most sturdy helmet available on the market, because of a thick ABS exhausting shell that’s practically impenetrable. This factor can take a beating for years with out displaying a lot signal of wear and tear. We had been additionally impressed with the sturdiness of the very related Petzl Boreo. Nevertheless, the floor of its shell appears extra liable to beauty scrapes than the Half Dome.
The Smith Summit Mips can be fairly sturdy. It is a dual-certified climbing and snowboarding helmet with a thick ABS shell that stands as much as rock and mountaineering and quick downhill snowboarding. We took it to the Alps for a 6-week climbing and snowboarding journey, and it did not falter as soon as regardless of being tossed round lodge rooms, crammed into practice baggage compartments, and defending our lead tester’s head on mountain adventures.
The polycarbonate shells of the Julbo The Peak LT and Petzl Meteor are thinner and barely extra fragile than ABS shells, however we discovered these two fashions to supply good sturdiness.
Uncovered foam helmets aren’t as sturdy, which is smart. Foam is a smooth materials that’s extremely vulnerable to the agency and sharp surfaces discovered whereas mountaineering. You may wish to deal with these with extra care when throwing your pack round. Amongst these helmets, the Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient Mips is essentially the most sturdy, because of its high-coverage shell design. This helmet has the biggest exhausting shell overlaying of any uncovered foam design we examined, making it essentially the most sturdy of the lot.
Conclusion
Climbing helmets have come a good distance lately. Producers are churning out ever lighter, extra snug choices for right this moment’s adventurers. Our complete evaluation has introduced a variety of choices, and we hope you heed our recommendation to shortly type by means of the market to seek out the perfect helmet in your wants and elegance. We’ll see you on the crag!