Finest General Bouldering Crash Pad
Mad Rock Duo
Pad thickness: 5 in | Weight: 17 lbs
REASONS TO BUY
Distinctive strap system for carrying a second pad
Thick foam
Plush suspension for heavy hundreds
Many options, together with sofa straps and a shoe-wiping mat
REASONS TO AVOID
Foam will not be splendid for brief falls
Up to date for 2024
Mad Rock up to date the Duo this yr with recycled materials, a brand new aesthetic, and extra velcro straps for connecting further pads.
The Mad Rock Duo earns our highest suggestion for its progressive strap system that lets you carry a second pad simply (and even a 3rd, with some problem). If you want to carry an additional pad, the Duo makes this a non-issue. This pad additionally boasts an impressively thick foam. It’s loaded with additional options, corresponding to a wonderful suspension system with a sternum strap, handy handles, strap keeper pockets, a pad to wipe off your sneakers, and the flexibility to show it right into a sofa. It is massive sufficient for use as a standalone pad and combines effectively with an additional pad for extra protection, notably with different Mad Rock pads that embrace the Velcro closure strips to maintain them collectively. For individuals who boulder alone or need to maximize floor protection, it is a implausible choice. Its worth can also be very reasonable in comparison with most of the higher-priced choices out there, growing the attraction of this nice pad to a bigger viewers.
Like different pads with Mad Rock’s 5-inch foam, the Duo is kind of stiff for low falls and awkward landings. Barely softer foam, or blended foams just like the Metolius Magnum options, tends to offer a gentler affect. The Duo softens over time, however we discovered it comparatively agency by way of the break-in course of. Characteristic-laden merchandise can typically appear to be a gimmick, however our testers had been stunned by simply how a lot they got here to like the helpful additions on this pad, which shortly turned our general favourite.
Learn extra: Mad Rock Duo overview
Finest Bang to your Buck
Natural Easy
Pad thickness: 4 in | Weight: 11 lbs
REASONS TO BUY
Excessive-quality foam
Strong backpack straps
Tremendous sturdy supplies
Simply attaches to different natural pads for transport
REASONS TO AVOID
Would not match very a lot gear
Lacks additional options
Our testers all get pleasure from bouldering with the Natural Easy. It contains a hybrid suitcase-style closure that mixes the standard suitcase design’s packability with the advantages of safety from a taco-style closure. When folded, the Easy has handles on either side of the pad, supplying you with a number of carrying choices whereas transferring between boulders. It is constructed from probably the most sturdy nylon in our check, and its steel closure buckles are our favourite. Subsequent to the Petzl Alto, the backpack system is among the many most comfy of all of the fashions we examined.
If you’re looking for a crash pad loaded with options, know there are higher choices out there. In comparison with the Mad Rock Duo, the Easy is missing in options, however this is not essentially unhealthy. Our testers may carry every little thing they wanted throughout testing, however when you plan to pack plenty of gear, this pad would not maintain rather more than a small daypack. The floor space can also be smaller, which can be a problem for some climbers. In case you can look past these caveats, then the Easy Pad may very well be the sturdy each day driver you have been wanting.
Learn extra: Natural Easy overview
Finest Giant Crash Pad
Metolius Magnum
Pad thickness: 4 in | Weight: 18.7 lbs
REASONS TO BUY
Big quantity of protection (70″x 47″)
Sturdy triple-layer foam
Slim profile when folded
Giant storage pocket
REASONS TO AVOID
Not as thick as some “highball” pads
It is easy for us to sing the praises of the versatile, well-designed Metolius Magnum. This pad is large, and some intelligent design options make it straightforward to handle this behemoth on longer approaches. Our testers strongly take into account massive pads essential for enjoyable and a point of safety in trendy bouldering, however nobody actually needs to hold them. The Magnum’s tri-fold design permits for a narrower profile than many smaller, taco-style pads, making the 18.7-pound pad really feel extra balanced in your again as you hike up hills or weave and squeeze between timber and boulders. A big storage pocket holds the necessities, and you’ll simply safe a small backpack on the highest of the pad beneath the closure flap. When it is time to get all the way down to enterprise, three layers of froth unfold the affect from violent, sudden diggers, and there are many handles to your associates to seize to allow them to optimize pad placement shortly as you get greater off the deck.
Some of us will miss the comfort of a taco-style mannequin that allows you to throw all of your gear within the heart and carry it like a suitcase to the following boulder drawback. Luckily, our testers realized to regulate and have become much less of a sprawling junk present within the course of. Many highball pads are 5″ thick, however the Magnum is barely 4″ thick, although the big space makes it a wonderful base for stacking pads whenever you’ve obtained an enormous fall. In case you’re flying solo, this pad is nearly good, supplying you with the protection of two small pads whereas being a lot simpler to hold than a Black Diamond Mondo Pad, or different similar-sized fashions. Every thing thought of, the Metolius Magnum needs to be on the very high of the want checklist for anybody wanting a bigger pad.
Learn extra: Metolius Magnum overview
Finest Medium-Sized Crash Pad
Natural Full Pad
Pad thickness: 4 in | Weight: 12 lbs
REASONS TO BUY
Good combine of froth
Carries gear effectively
Wonderful fall safety
REASONS TO AVOID
Lacks a strategy to connect different pads
The Natural Full Pad checks virtually all of the containers one would anticipate from a high-end bouldering crash pad. The high-quality mixture of open and closed cell foam makes falls from any top as comfy as hitting the bottom will ever be. Whereas it would not provide many fancy options just like the Mad Rock Duo, it does embrace a useful pocket closure flap. We discovered this flap nifty in our checks for a number of causes. First, it helps you to load up your pad with extra gear and makes it straightforward to connect one other medium-sized pad for carrying. Our favourite factor concerning the flap is that whenever you open the pad, you possibly can lay it down on the bottom beneath the pad – virtually like a floor sheet – and it protects the backpack straps and hip belt from getting moist and muddy. It additionally sports activities comfy backpack straps, a large hip belt, and a sternum strap, making this pad a terrific selection for longer approaches.
Whereas it is not a dealbreaker, the Full Pad lacks a strategy to connect itself to different pads in a touchdown zone. Fortunately, it options good sq. edges, so this often is not a problem. Evaluating its worth to fully-featured pads we examined just like the Petzl Alto, we might take the improved fall safety this extra reasonably priced pad presents. Except you are procuring for a bigger pad or one with a number of extra options, the Full Pad is the most effective mid-sized crash pad out there.
Learn extra: Natural Full overview
Finest Crash Pad for Carrying Gear
Kinetik Newton 4.0
Pad thickness: 4 in | Weight: 14 lbs
REASONS TO BUY
Adjustable shoulder yoke
Padded shoulder straps
Strong flap closure system that holds gear effectively
REASONS TO AVOID
Comfortable foam
Overly sophisticated
In case you prefer to wander farther away from the crowds, then the Kinetik Newton 4.0 is the perfect selection. With an adjustable and comfy carry system and the flexibility to stow away additional gear, this crash pad shines on lengthy approaches and alpine adventures alike. The outer shell is constructed from extremely sturdy ballistic nylon and will maintain as much as season after season of exhausting use. The closure buckles are constructed from thick steel however have rounded edges and a extremely ergonomic form. Kinetik obtained all of the little particulars proper with this one, and we respect how they add to the general efficiency of this pad.
We expect the froth on the Newton 4.0 may very well be a bit stiffer, nevertheless it makes for a comfortable catch on falls low to the bottom. Although it’s loaded with touchpoints to enhance gear storage and adjustability, these wanting a no-frills pad will possible discover all the additional straps overly advanced – if that sounds such as you, we advocate the aptly named Natural Easy as a substitute. However for its functions, the Newton is a well-designed pad that excels at hauling gear out to your distant venture.
Learn extra: Kinetik Newton 4.0 overview
Evaluate Merchandise
How We Take a look at Bouldering Crash Pads
We started this overview by researching the most effective bouldering crash pads at the moment out there available on the market and spoke with diehard pebble wrestlers about their favourite and least favourite crash pads used. Subsequent, the chosen pads had been bought at full worth, after which we put them by way of months of normal, real-world use throughout bouldering periods. We took falls from excessive and low and carried all the crash pads to distant bouldering locations. Discipline testing’s end result was an intensive three days the place we carried out side-by-side managed experiments on the pads, corresponding to taking a fall repeatedly onto the identical “hidden” rock. All through, we paid specific consideration to how effectively they padded falls and packed gear, in addition to noting sturdiness and helpful options.
Our testing of bouldering crash pads is split into 5 completely different metrics:
- Excessive Falls (30% of whole rating weighting)
- Sturdiness (20% weighting)
- Packing Gear (10% weighting)
Why Belief GearLab
Bringing you this overview is the dream staff of Chris Summit, Chris McNamara, Steven Tata, Henry Feder, Matt Bento, and Buck Yedor.
Chris Summit is the creator of seven climbing and bouldering guidebooks and lots of first ascents throughout northern California. Flattening on rock since ’89, he continues discovering first ascents in out-of-the-way locations.
We even have our OutdoorGearLab Founder and Editor-in-Chief, Chris McNamara, on board. Chris can also be the founder and head creator of the rock information writer SuperTopo, founding father of the American Secure Climbing Affiliation. He has over 70 ascents of El Capitan and holds 9 huge wall velocity climbing information.
Our Senior Analysis Analyst Steven Tata. Steven holds a B.S. in Mechanical Engineering from UMass Amherst, and, after a stint working in marine propulsion, joined OutdoorGearLab. An avid climber, he just lately hit locations from Massachusetts to Alaska on the identical journey.
Henry Feder, who holds a B.S. in Journey Schooling from Inexperienced Mountain School is a former member of Yosemite’s Search and Rescue crew, and an avid climber residing in South Lake Tahoe, CA.
Matt Bento is one other YOSAR veteran who’s spent loads of summers discovering and climbing new boulder issues in Yosemite Valley, scaling blocks in Tuolumne Meadows, and wintering within the bouldering mecca of Bishop, California. He’d like each climber who would not determine as a “boulderer” to make a journey to Hueco Tanks, the place “the climbing is so enjoyable, you would possibly by no means really feel the necessity to tie in ever once more.”
Our ultimate contributor, Buck Yedor is yet one more YOSAR alumni who has lengthy since traded in his haul luggage for bouldering pads. From the proper granite blocs of Yosemite Valley to the beautiful quartzite of Rocklands, South Africa, Buck has traveled far and large, scaling as many boulders as attainable alongside the way in which.
Evaluation and Take a look at Outcomes
After side-by-side checks, we compiled our notes, evaluated variations between every pad, and scored all of them throughout 5 scoring metrics.
A Fast Word About Sizing
We outline a “medium bouldering pad” as roughly 48″ x 36″. We additionally put pads as much as about 49″ x 41″ into the medium pad class. A medium pad is the commonest dimension as a result of it matches in most automobiles, is comparatively straightforward to hold, and is massive sufficient for many low to medium-height issues. Giant pads are 60″ x 48″ as much as 50″ to 72″. For a lot of medium to tall issues, climbers will desire a bigger crash pad or a number of medium and small crash pads.
What is the Finest Worth?
The pads in our overview have a broad vary of checklist costs, which usually correlate with the realm and thickness of the pad. On the decrease finish, pads just like the Metolius Session II cowl medium areas and have easy options. In distinction, the high-end Black Diamond Mondo covers an enormous space, options a number of the thickest foam of any pad within the overview, and prices a reasonably penny. Pads within the center vary incorporate numerous options that make them simpler to make use of and carry round.
The Mad Rock Duo is our high suggestion for its mixture of thick foam, massive space, and helpful, distinctive options at an inexpensive worth. Whereas not as feature-laden because the Duo, the Natural Easy is one other pad that gives customers great worth. Made with a number of the finest foam available on the market and a extremely sturdy outer, this pad ought to maintain your ankles secure for years.
Padding Falls
To guage how effectively a bouldering crash pad cushions a fall, we merely fell loads – and more often than not on function. We break down this metric into excessive and low falls, with a part assessing how effectively pads cushion a fall over an uneven touchdown zone.
The Artwork of Recognizing
A very good spotter is simply as vital as a very good bouldering crash pad. A stronger spotter who is aware of what they’re doing could make you’re feeling as if you have been plucked from the sky whenever you fall, supplying you with confidence when you want to excessive step and even when heel hooking over your head. You may be taught to be a very good spotter it doesn’t matter what dimension or how sturdy you might be. Being energetic, transferring pads, and ensuring the climber lands on them is simply as vital as being a very good belayer and can possible lead to everybody in your crew sending tougher and having extra enjoyable.
Excessive Fall Take a look at
For large drops, our favourite foam to fall on was the 5-inch thick foam of the Black Diamond Mondo. The massive touchdown zone and additional inch of froth went a great distance in upping our confidence when questing greater off the deck.
The Metolious Magnum was one other one in every of our favorites for when falls began to get huge, and we began to get scared. Whereas a group of small pads can actually create the identical dimension touchdown zone, having an enormous pad with no gaps is our most well-liked floor to land on from excessive up. Each of the Natural pads have smaller touchdown zones, however their stiff foam is great for stopping huge falls.
Low Fall Take a look at
When working strikes in cave issues, you could end up repeatedly falling in your again. It is good in case your touchdown zone has some cushion to it. By way of foam, open-cell foam feels softer however have to be balanced with closed-cell foam for longer falls from greater up.
The Kinetik Newton 4.0, Mad Rock Mad Pad, and each of the Natural fashions had been our favourite picks in our testing for repeated low falls. Whereas the froth in these pads may be a tad too mushy to cushion a excessive fall, they’re completely suited to guard our bums and backs whereas engaged on difficult sit begins. A singular and extremely appreciated facet of the Natural Full and Natural Easy is that they carry out very effectively on each excessive and low falls. Of all of the pads we examined, the froth utilized in these hits that candy spot the most effective. Natural followers rave concerning the foam this firm makes use of; after testing, we perceive why.
The massive Metolius Magnum makes use of a 3-layer foam system, with a thick layer of compressible open-cell foam sandwiched between two thinner layers of firmer foam. This creates a terrific stability for low-ball motion whereas permitting for sturdiness and foam longevity, although the Magnum is barely 4″ thick. When model new, the Mad Rock Duo was stiffer than we favored for low, jarring, on-your-back kind falls.
Uneven Terrain Take a look at
For this testing, we used the pads on treacherous, uneven terrain to see how effectively they managed. The Metolius Magnum and the Kinetic Newton have velcro flaps to seal up the hinge, mitigating an issue different hinged pads have. In case you fall in the course of most hinged pads, the pad might fold in half round you want a Venus Flytrap. The true want for the unhinged foam of a taco-style design is barely evident on very sharp, uneven, rocky touchdown zones. We extremely advocate this fashion when you boulder loads in talus fields or different extraordinarily rocky spots. In any other case, a hinged pad will deal with you simply effective.
Draping hinged pads over rocks helps you to pad the tops and sides of potential hazards.
Tri-fold pads just like the Metolius Magnum have three hinge factors, making them a wonderful selection for padding bigger rocks when used within the face-down configuration.
The exception to the rule that you simply want a taco-style closure for rocky landings was the hybrid hinge design on the Natural Easy,Natural Full, and the Kinetik Newton pads. The highest layer of froth on each of these pads is one steady piece of froth that stops you from bottoming out by way of the seam.
Sturdiness
For our evaluation, we break down the sturdiness of a bouldering crash pad into a number of classes, which mix to find out a pad’s general sturdiness.
Supplies and Craftsmanship
The rubberized “Batman Go well with” coating on the Black Diamond Mondo will not be solely waterproof however sticks to angled, slanted, and tilted touchdown zones higher than another pad we examined. The coating can also be very resilient and long-lasting. The Metolius Magnum employs an ultra-tough 900-denier nylon shell cloth. We have seen this mannequin stand up to years of being dragged throughout bouldering areas.
It is vital to notice that each one the pads in our check have foam that may be eliminated and changed. Every producer makes use of velcro or zippers to shut the shell cloth across the foam, so in case your foam is outdated and bottoming out, however the shell is undamaged, you possibly can have the froth changed.
Each Natural pads stand out in general craftsmanship and sturdiness. They use a bombproof 1050-denier nylon shell and Cordura for the touchdown zone. These pads will maintain up for probably the most abusive customers. The Kinetik Newton 4.0 is one other pad that makes use of ultra-strong outer supplies that ought to maintain up for years to come back.
Foam Sturdiness
Most pads available on the market right now have the softer, open-cell PU (polyurethane) foam and the extra dense and agency closed-cell PE (polyethylene) foam mixed in separate layers. The layering makes the pads agency on one aspect for tall, high-impact falls in your ft and softer on the opposite aspect for brief, exhausting, jarring falls in your bottom. This technique permits the pads to easily be flipped over for both utility. On most pads, the agency aspect is up for the commonest falling state of affairs, a medium to excessive fall onto your ft.
The Metolius Magnum makes use of three layers of froth, with a 1″ layer of closed-cell foam on high, 2.5″ of softer open-cell foam within the center, and an extra ½” of closed-cell foam on the underside. The result’s that the underside of the pad is noticeably softer than the highest, with out being too squishy, whereas including general rigidity to the pad.
The Petzl Alto padding is a thick layer of PU foam that is barely too mushy. Luckily, the thinner layer is a 50/50 combine of various density high-quality closed-cell PE foam that makes for a long-lasting pad appropriate for low to excessive bouldering till the PU wears out. At this level, it is going to be relegated to low to medium bouldering with long-lasting high quality foam.
General Sturdiness
For probably the most half, all the pads that we examined are well-built and could be anticipated to final for a number of seasons of heavy use. Probably the most sturdy foam design we noticed was Mad Rock’s 5-inch, 3-layer foam used on the Mad Rock Duo. It was additionally the stiffest and offered some exhausting landings for brief falls. Each of the Natural pads are extraordinarily sturdy and are recognized to final for years and years.
Packing Gear
When you usually solely must deliver sneakers, chalk, and a few water to go bouldering, if you are going to be hanging out for some time, it may be good to pack some additional niceties. The pad that hauled the bulkiest, heaviest hundreds finest is the Kinetik Newton 4.0. Its distinctive flap closure system helps you to stuff it to the brim with out something falling out. The Natural Full additionally has a helpful however much less strong flap closure system. For midsized pads, they each allow you to deliver a small drag pad, a cumbersome fan, and a day pack with no concern.
Packing Giant Objects
The Metolius Session II did notably effectively with massive objects. The Session II’s flap closure has just one hook buckle strap to safe it, which wasn’t splendid for protecting many small objects inside.
The Metolius Magnum has a considerably restricted carrying capability in comparison with a number of the pads that fold in half, nevertheless it has a big pocket in its closure strap, and there may be area to strap down a small backpack to the highest for hands-free mountain climbing.
The Petzl Alto has probably the most safe zip-up flap closure, however it’s not adjustable. It matches an above-average dimension load fairly effectively, nevertheless it’s not fitted to massive cumbersome hundreds. Our testers additionally discovered the Velcro suspension system not as tightly adjustable as an old-school buckle fashion, and it has no heart lifting deal with to help with heavy hundreds.
The Mad Rock Duo is not the best choice for stuffing plenty of massive objects inside. Nonetheless, we appreciated the daisy chains on the skin of the pad, that are helpful for clipping objects like sneakers or water bottles, liberating up a little bit more room inside for anything you would possibly need to deliver alongside. Fashions just like the Metolius Recon couldn’t deal with carrying something quite a lot of necessities. Additionally, we did not discover a important distinction within the consolation of carrying huge hundreds in our checks.
Packing Small Objects
With its safe zipper flap closure system, the Petzl Alto is fingers down the most effective pad we have examined for carrying small to medium a great deal of gear. The zip-up flap closes the bag so tight it’s sealed like a backpack, and never even spare change, or extra importantly, automobile keys, can escape the burly YKK zipper seal. The Metolius Session II has flap closures that assist maintain small- to medium-sized a great deal of gear in place very effectively. The Kinetik Newton 4.0 has each high and backside flaps in addition to an enormous aspect flap that ensures virtually nothing will fall out when they’re all securely buckled closed.
A few of the pads we examined had small storage pockets that a few of our testers discovered helpful for holding keys, wallets, telephones, and so on. These options get combined evaluations from our testers, as many desire to hold a small pack to prepare their provides and do not hassle with the pockets on the crash pads. It is also vital to notice that when you put something breakable in a crash pad pocket, chances are high you will neglect that it is in there after which fall on it. Nonetheless, sure bouldering facilities like nail clippers, recordsdata, and brushes are low profile, and you may at all times have them readily available if they’re saved within the pocket.
Options
Whereas there are non-negotiable options on a bouldering crash pad – like a carrying system, as an illustration – uncovering the nuanced design options that set the highest pads aside takes time getting intimate with these crash pads.
Buckles
The Kinetiek Newton’s hook buckles had been the most effective we examined. They’re well-finished, massive, and clean, all issues that make them very straightforward to function. The Mad Rock buckles had been a bit exhausting to tug tight or free. All are a lot better than the outdated plastic buckles that had an inclination to interrupt or the outdated Velcro closures that may ultimately put on out. Aside from the Petzl Alto‘s distinctive all-Velcro waist and shoulder strap suspension system, all of the pads nonetheless use comparable plastic buckles for the waist belts. With a little bit observe, the robust aluminum Metolius buckles make nice bottle openers.
Straps
The straps had been about the identical on all of the pads, with generic nylon webbing. All of the pads had padded shoulder straps. Probably the most comfy backpack straps we examined had been on the Natural Easy and Full. The Petzl Alto had the primary Velcro fastening shoulder and waist straps. With out the buckles, you would need to undo and redo the closure to regulate it on the fly, which was sometimes annoying however not a major drawback. The Alto additionally had an adjustable bandolier strap that helped to move the pad between boulders.
The Black Diamond Mondo has two enormous dealt with straps on both finish of the pad, so you possibly can shoulder the entire thing like an enormous purse whenever you fold it in half, making it simpler to hold, and situating it greater off the bottom. The Metolius Magnum has suitcase-style handles on both finish of the pad and on the folding hinges, so it is simple to select up and carry from both aspect. Little touches like these make your day of dragging pads round a lot simpler.
Consolation Hanging Out
The Mad Rock Duo, Mad Pad, and the Petzl Alto, each have straps that may flip the pads into couches whenever you aren’t climbing. When current, the sofa choice is one in every of our favourite options for a pad to have and makes them particularly helpful round camp.
The Black Diamond Mondo and the Metolius Magnum are massive sufficient for 2 individuals to sleep on, although the Mondo may be very stiff out of the field, and our testers discovered the Magnum extra comfy in the event that they slept on the softer aspect. The underside (strap aspect) of all of the bouldering crash pads in our overview is softer than the highest. Do not forget that you would be able to at all times flip it over if the highest feels too inflexible for napping on (or for low falls onto your again).
Conclusion
Crash pads are an integral a part of trendy bouldering. Not solely do they defend a falling climber from affect with the bottom, however they’ll additionally add confidence to push for tougher strikes. Superior climbers will possible profit by coaching on one of many high hangboards to proceed progressing grades and growing power. These pads aren’t low-cost, so it is best to make the suitable buy primarily based in your particular person wants, climbing fashion, and customary touchdown surfaces (uneven, flat, and so on.). If you wish to go a little bit greater than a boulder will permit, you will possible want extra gear. We have reviewed climbing ropes for sport and trad climbing, in addition to climbing harnesses for women and men’s climbing harnesses. No matter your climbing pursuits, we hope our complete evaluations provide help to zero in in your choices and information you towards an knowledgeable resolution to your future rock endeavors.